The province of Chimborazo is named after the highest Ecuadorian mountain (20.702 feet above sea level), the third highest elevation in America after the Aconcagua in the Chilean-Argentinean border and the Huascarán in Peru. The summit of the Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the Earth, as it is crossed by the Equatorial line, where the Earth is wider. Thus, if measured from the center of the Earth, the Chimborazo would be the highest mountain on the planet. The majestic Chimborazo has attracted adventurers and scientists such as Humboldt and Whimper and has inspired artists and writers.

Mountain climbing:
The Chimborazo is the "Colossus" of the mountains of the region, however, it does not stand alone. On a clear day, other impressive snow-capped mountains can be admired: the Altar (17.730 feet), the Carihuairazo (16.470 feet), and the Sangay active volcano (17.159 feet). Also close are the Illinizas (17.267 and 16.785 feet) and the Tungurahua (16.457 feet), which has been in eruption since 1999.During Humboldt’s visit to South America in the year 1802, he named the region as the "Avenue of the Volcanoes" precisely due to the presence of these snow-capped volcanoes, all close but separated from each other.

Indigenous communities:
The province has the largest concentration of indigenous population in Ecuador. The indigenous inhabitants of the region worshiped the Chimborazo as a god. Many of them still preserve their way of life, dress, food, and traditions, with the obvious influence of the domination of the Incas and the later clash with the Spanish conquest. Introduced religions such as Catholicism and in the last few years Evangelism, have caused a syncretism in many of their indigenous traditions and celebrations.
Up to this day, in the rural roads of the province one can find the peaceful and humble indigenous peoples living in disperse family groups. Unfortunately, many of them live in conditions of poverty and they owe only small parcels of land. However, they are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of tourism and mountain climbing, and have started to receive economical benefits from this activity. Some of them are learning to be mountain guides, and are glad to share not only their knowledge about their mountains and their unpredictable changes of weather, but also their legends, which have been transmitted by oral tradition.

The "hieleros" of the Chimborazo:
A tradition of the indigenous communities of the Chimborazo province is to bring down ice from the glaciers of the mountain to prepare their drinks. Although the amount of people dedicated to this activity has evidently reduced, the activity still exists. To this day, blocks of ice are cut from the glaciers on Tuesdays and Fridays and transported by mules down to the city of Riobamba, to be sold in snow cones called "raspados" at the Wednesday and Saturday open markets. The road of the "hieleros" can be followed by foot, on horseback or on 4 X 4 jeeps.

Riobamba is the capital city of the province of Chimborazo. From there, it is possible to arrange trips to the surrounding mountains. In the city, which has a strong Spanish influence, one encounters indigenous people, sharing with mestizos and a minority of white population. The "Madres Conceptas" and the Maldonado School Science Museums are definitely worth visiting.
The history of the city is marked by the fact that it is the link between the Coast and the Highlands. In 1830, when Ecuador separated from the "Gran Colombia", Riobamba was the chosen city for the signing of the First Constitution of the new Republic. The "Gran Colombia" was Simón Bolivar’s dream, a group of nations that he liberated from Spain: what is now Colombia, Venezuela, Bolivia and Ecuador. Simón Bolívar wrote his most outstanding poem in the city of Riobamba, inspired in the Chimborazo: "Mi Delirio sobre el Chimborazo" (My Delirium over the Chimborazo).The geologist Pedro Vicente Maldonado from Riobamba joined with the French Geographic Mission that came to Ecuador in the XIX century to measure the planet Earth. At the time, they referred to this region as "Equatorial zone", thus the name chosen by the First Assembly for the Country: "Ecuador".Riobamba’s importance in the last few centuries was highly due to the presence of the train station, the main means of communication in Ecuador at the time. Today, the train is no longer an important means of transportation, but is a unique tourist attraction. From the Riobamba station, the train parts to the most impressive track of the railway through the "Avenue of the Volcanoes", which ends up at the "Nariz del Diablo". For more information about this railway adventure. How to get there: The city of Riobamba (which is in festivities during this month) is located at the center of the country. Taking the Pan-American Highway, it is located 183 km. South of Quito and 232 km. to the North-East of Guayaquil.



Train journeys in Ecuador:
Train journeys in Ecuador can be slow and uncomfortable, but they are a sure adventure! The Trans-Andean Railroad is a spectacular tourist attraction for the variety of climates and the fantastic natural and cultural scenery along the journeys. Moreover, the trains themselves are a colorful part of the landscape. The old steam trains and peculiar "autoferros" (iron cars) that travel along the Andes are almost a relic. The autoferro is actually an antiquated bus complete with brakes that feed on sand, mounted on a train’s chassis and fitted with a diesel engine.
Foreigners are always surprised by the fact that one is allowed to climb to the trains’ roofs. We recommend that you wear a hat, sun block, and a jacket, and climb on the roof; it ensures the best view! Watch out for the branches and tunnels, though!
Train travel in Ecuador began in 1910, when the Quito-Guayaquil line was opened. In 1895, President Eloy Alfaro contacted an American company interested in building the "most difficult railway in the world", as it was called at the time. The construction began in 1899. It reduced a nine-day trek along a path that was impassable during the rainy season, to a two-day journey. Soon, it was acclaimed as one of the "great railway journeys of the world".
A great deal of the Quito-Guayaquil railway was destroyed by landslides during the devastating El Niño floods of 1982-83, but some sections have since been repaired.

The routes that are now open are:
Riobamba-Nariz del Diablo-Riobamba:
On Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 7h00, the train leaves from the station at the city of Riobamba (10 de Agosto and Carabobo), passes through Cajabamba and the Colta lagoons, and the small Guamote village. At 10h30 it climbs to a little picturesque town in the highlands called Alausí.
Then comes the most exhilarating part of the journey, said to be one of the most spectacular in the world. The train zigzags up and down 45-degree gradient called "Nariz del Diablo" (Devil’s Nose) in a breathtaking experience. The train goes backwards on the way down, and then returns to Alausí. At 13h30 it leaves back towards Riobamba, where it arrives at 17h00. Price: US$ 14.20 round trip.
It is also possible to take the train only from Alausí down "Nariz del Diablo" and back. The town of Alausí has beautiful cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and a colorful food market that is definitely worth visiting! The train station is easy to find at the heart of the town. Roundtrip Aluasí-Sibambe-Alausí is $8.
"La Vieja Casona" offers excellent accommodations at this charming town. You need to contact the family that owns the house beforehand to arrange your lodging (2459-197 in Quito or 099-700-778).

Marco Cruz Arellano was the pioneer of the mountain-climbing activity in Ecuador. He was the first Ecuadorian to reach the peak of the Altar- the country’s most challenging mountain to climb. Marco has crowned the Chimborazo in more that 600 opportunities, and has guided in all of the Ecuadorian mountains, as well as in the Alps, the Himalayas and Mt. McKinley.
In 1970, the Ecuadorian Tourism Corporation commissioned Mr. Cruz to compose the first inventory of tourism resources of the country. This job gave him the opportunity to travel throughout the entire country: highlands, coast, Amazon rain forest, and Galapagos. His home in Riobamba houses a collection of 60.000 pictures of Ecuador, some of which have been published in his different books. One of his best-known publications is "Montañas del Ecuador" (Ecuadorian Mountains), which has impressive pictures and excellent descriptions of all of Ecuador’s mountains.
Although his specialty, of course, is all of the Ecuadorian mountains, his knowledge goes beyond the highlands. For example, he knows the Shuar community of the Amazon rain forest very well. He owns a vast photo register of their traditions and life style, their use of hallucinogenic substances in ceremonial rituals, and their peculiar process of shrinking heads (tzantzas).
Marco Cruz lives in Riobamba and operates a travel agency that is dedicated to managing groups that are interested in High Mountain trekking and climbing, Expediciones Andinas. He also runs a "Basecamp" at the foot of the Chimborazo Mt., at a place called "Totorillas". Here he has a llama and alpaca breeding center and cozy Swiss Style cabins overlooking the impressive Chimborazo. The comfort of the cabins surrounded by the imposing Andean landscape creates a magical experience.
At the Abraspungo Hotel, you can admire some of Mr. Cruz’s black and white pictures, among which is a collection of spectacular pictures of the "hieleros" of the Chimborazo.

OTHER RAILROAD ROUTES THROUGH THE ANDES:
Quito-Cotopaxi-Quito:The train leaves Saturdays and Sundays at 8h00 from the Quito train station (Sincholagua and Maldonado Street No. 315) to the "Boliche" Recreational Area. The "Boliche" is a pine forest at the entrance of the Cotopaxi National Park. Pines were introduced to Ecuador; they are not native trees. But along the train journey you will also be able to observe native bushes typical of the Andes. On the way, the magnificent sight of the Andes, parallel to what Humboldt called the "Avenue of Volcanoes", presents a panorama that makes it difficult to decide which side to look at. It runs for approximately three hours, allowing a view of the Ecuadorian Andean Range where the snow capped Cotopaxi dominates the scenery. It also passes by traditional colonial haciendas and peasants that show the rural life in the Andes. At the "Boliche" you can have a picnic and take walks, until the train departs at 14h30. It is back in the Quito station at 17h00. Price per person $4.60 round trip. Metropolitan Touring recently inaugurated a whole day excursion that combines a ride on "autoferro" along this railway with lunch at a typical farm. The "autoferro" leaves every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8h00 from the Quito Station. The ride can be complemented with other packages to visit the nearby haciendas, towns, and cities, or to continue by bus so that you can take the other train ride (Riobamba-Nariz del Diablo-Riobamba) on the next day.
Ibarra-Primer Paso-Ibarra:The autoferro ("iron car") leaves from the city of Ibarra, capital of the Imbabura province, to a site called "El Paso", next to the river Mira. This journey crosses numerous tunnels, and spindly bridges over heart-stopping deep ravines. The changing scenery of the province of Imbabura is stunning: the train descends from green mountains to a desert valley and finally to tropical humid weather.

The Ibarra-San Lorenzo line was opened in 1957 after two French companies spent five years hacking a way through the wilderness. Until the recent construction of a highway, this was the only means of overland access to the coastal port of San Lorenzo in the northwestern tip of the country. Unfortunately, now the railway is only working up to "Primer Paso".Each way is of an hour and a half, however usually it takes a day trip because one stays in "El Paso" for a picnic, to rest and maybe even bathe in the river.
The price of the roundtrip is of $50 for the whole autoferro, which can carry up to 50 passengers. The autoferro does not have a regular schedule, as it only runs when a group rents it, but it is possible to do it any day of the week. To arrange the trip, call the Ibarra station at 06-2950390.For further information on all the train routes, call: Empresa Nacional de Ferrocarriles (02) 2582-924/1 (Quito)
Ticket office in Quito (02) 2582-930
Riobamba Station (03) 2961-909
Alausí Station (03) 2930-126
Ibarra Station (06) 2950-390
* In most of these numbers, receptionists do not speak English.

Photos by: Marco Cruz and Gustavo Vallejo.

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